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  High Quality Solar DIY Panel 700W Kit - 300 Mono 5 x 5 Cells
High Quality Solar DIY Panel 700W Kit - 300 Mono 5 x 5 Cells


 
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LIST PRICE: $2,199.95
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Product Code: EBS-SOLAR-DIY-KIT-300-5X5-B

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Description
 
High Quality Solar DIY Panel
700W Kit - 300 Mono 5 x 5 Cells

 


This Solar Cells DIY Panel Super Kit enables you to make a DIY solar panel with 5x5 Grade B monocrystalline solar cells which each generate 2.1 to 2.6 watts. Each cell has been individually tested.

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These are mono crystalline solar cells that are made from solid piece of mono crystalline wafers, which produce the highest efficiency solar cells. The solar cells generally measure 0.6v and 5 amp and above, but since these are grade B cells, some slight blemishes are possible. The blemishes can include slight off color, and some tiny chips on one edge may be possible - they are so minimal or only a few cells might have defects you will be pleased with them. The cells have never been used - and they are not de-soldered cells. In this batch the cells should generally be between 2.1 to 2.6 watts each. If you test the cells under good sources of light and measure them with your multimeter, you should get close to 0.6 volts, and 5 amps + -.

Note: these cells are very fragile, so handle with great care when opening the package and soldering.

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The following are a little more details regarding this kit:
(solar cells, tabbing wires, bus wires, flux pen, diode)

I) Cells:

The standard cell specifications are the following, though the individual cells can be above or below these standards.

Cell Specifications
  • Open circuit voltage Voc: 0.604-0.623 V
  • Close circuit current Isc: 3.477-4.173 A
  • Maximum power voltage Vmax: 0.473-0.528 V
  • Maximum power current Imax: 3.129-3.756 A
  • Power: 2.1-2.6 watts
  • Dimension: 125 mm X 125 mm, or 5X5 In.
  • Thickness: 0.2mm, or 200 um

II) Tabbing Wires:  600 feet of tabbing wires included to connect the solar cells. Cut them into sections to solder onto the bus bars or back side of the cells.

III) Bus Wires: 60 feet of bus wires. Use them to connect them between the series and connect the tabbing wires ends to the junction box at the back of the panel.

IV) Flux Pen: an easy-to-use flux pen that dispenses flux onto the bus bar or your tabbing wires without leaving a mess. It's used to aid soldering and bonding of the wires to the cells. A must have item. The flux liquid in the pen has a seal. At first use of the brand new flux, remove cap, hold the flux and point the tip upward, press the tip inside a few times so that the liquid can flow to the tip later on.

V) Diodes: 8 diode rated at 10 amp each. Schottky style diode.

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Some useful information in making solar power

How to make sense of the above numbers

The basic and very important formula you need to know to make sense of solar cells is this:
Power (P) = Current (I) Multiply by Voltage (V), or P=I*V
Power's unit of measure is watt,
Current's unit of measure is amp,
Voltage's unit of measure is volt.

It's important to understand the concepts of series connection and parallel connection when stringing these solar cells together to make a solar panel. Series connection of the cells increases voltage but not amperage; parallel connection of the cells increases amperage but not voltage. Series connection is when you connect the positive terminal of a cell with the negative terminal of the next cell. Parallel connection is when you connect the positive terminals of all cells in the set of cells with a tabbing wire and all the negative terminals of all cell in the same set. You can use a combination of series and parallel connections to get the right voltage and amperage for your solar panel.

The cell specifications above were given to us by the manufacturer as averages. Variations are possible. To make a 18 volts panel, for example, you connect 36 cells in series (36 cells times 0.5 volt each = 18 volts). And 36 * 1.75 (each cell in theory averages 1.75 watt) watt = 63 watts. The amps you will be getting is 63 watts divided by 18 volts = 3.5 amps.

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Solar cells basics

The front of the cells (blue side, aka Sunny side) has two thick white lines, called bus bars. They are the negative terminals of the cell. The back side, where the 6 square dots are, are positive terminals. Connect the tabbing wires from the bus bar of the first cell on one side to the three dots of on the back side of the next cell. That way you have a series connection. Repeat the process on the other side of the cells. In panel making you should connect all the tabbing wires on the front for all the cells first, then flip the cells over to solder the back side in a second step. Some solar cells such as SunPower cells have both positive and negative terminals at the back of the cells, but we don't have to worry about them. Most cells are negative on the front and positive on the back.

The white color bus bars on front and the contact points on the back are made out of silver, and you should keep them intact. Apply solder on your them and the wires should bond.


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Testing

Make sure that you test the cells under strong sun light with the front of the cell facing the sun, at the same time connect your meters to the right terminals. If you are inside the building, make sure you shine your sun simulating lamps onto the front of the cell while testing.




Panel configuration

For those who are new to solar panel making or if you don't have an engineering background, here is our recommendation:


1) Make small panels first so you gain experience.


2) In most situations, make either 36 or 72 cell panels, and connect them in series. 36 cells give you 17.5 or around 18 volts or so. And 72 cells doubles that. These panels are very useful, and you will find a lot of matching products that will want to buy! For example, you almost always want to use a charge controller if you make your panels to charge batteries. Charge controllers usually come in 12 or 24 volt settings, which match your panels' 18 and 36 volts very nicely. Yes, your panel voltage should be 1.5 times the voltage of the battery you intend to charge. Connect more panels together if you want to tie to the grid, in which case, always use an inverter. However, we always recommend that the panels that you make for yourself be used in off-grid applications, such as charging your batteries to be used in RV, remote cabin, or marine settings. If you intend to connect to the grid, it is wise to buy the professionally made, UL certified panels.


3) For a lot higher voltage panels and configurations and connecting multiple panels to get high voltage, consult a professional. Just don't fry yourself. Remember that solar panels are always loaded with electricity when exposed under the sun. At high voltage even a tiny bit of current, when handled wrongly, can kill you.


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Soldering

If you want to become a serious panel maker, buy a good soldering iron whose temperature can be adjusted. Don't get a cheap iron. It's one of the most important tools you need to have. If you can't buy an adjustable solder iron, get one that's rated at 90 watts. Also when you solder, all you need to do is to apply flux on the bus bars and the backside contacts before soldering. Do NOT scrape off the whitish substance on the bus bar or the backside square contacts. Those are made of silver and must be kept intact. Just apply flux and solder the tabbing wires. The wires are already coated with tin solder so you don't need to use extra solder AT ALL. Use a smooth and continuous motion to solder the wires onto the bus bars of the cells.


Disclaimer: We are not experts in power systems and the above are what we learn through experience but we share what we know, and you should take it with a grain of salt. Buy books written by experts or take classes from the pros. These are about as much as we can help you with to get started, and we hope that this free consulting will reduce the flood of eBay messages that come into our inbox on a daily basis. Some people just keep asking question and taking time from us without buying, and we love to give, but please be considerate. Our resources are not limitless.




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Packaging


The solar cells are very fragile so be very very careful when handling them. But out of all of the solar cell packages that we sent so far, broken cells via transit are relatively rare occurrences, though theoretically it's quite possible. We invested a lot of resources to make sure that the cells are well protected by a combination of foam pads, paper pad, bubble wraps, manufactured foam forms, inner box, and outer box. We have won rave reviews from our customer feedback on our outstanding packaging, just check our feedback so you can rest assured that your cells arrive intact. Our warehouse personnel take great pride in their packaging. And we are developing even better and efficient packaging solutions to bring the cells to our customers whole.


Each package is clearly marked and labeled with how many inner packs and how many cells there are in teach pack. We also weigh each package and everything is recorded and signed off before shipping. All shipping paper work is double printed - one for our customer and one for our record, so that we have documented proof that we have shipped everything that our customers bought. This is done to prevent suspicious claims of not receiving the goods. In extremely rare occurrences where cells were shipped short, we would gladly make up the cells that you paid for but didn't receive.


You might break some cells during panel making process, so we always give our customer extra bonus cells for free just to show consideration for our customers. The number and percentage of extra cells we give vary, and it's purely at the discretion of the management, but all of our customers have been pleased with the deal they get.


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