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Getting started, to build your sprinkler system

Assembly is a snap once all of the pre-planning is complete. Lay out the pieces first. Your Sprinklers in a Box kit will come pre-assembled. We attach the heads to the pieces, build your valves, and pre-wire the sprinkler timer to the valves, and preset all the settings. Just Follow our simple instructions below.

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Step 1, Checking Pressure
Put a pressure gauge on the outside spigot (You can find this gauge at your local hardware store for about $11.00), turn the water on all the way and measure the pressure or PSI.
Measure the flow in gallons per minute (gpm) by timing how long it takes your outdoor faucet to fill a gallon bucket. Follow the calculations below to find out the GPM.



Examples for GPM calculations:

A 3-gallon bucket takes 15 seconds to fill.
3 ÷ 15 = 0.2

0.2 x 60 = 12 GPM or 720 GPH.

A 4-gallon bucket takes 30 seconds to fill.
4 ÷ 30 = 0.13

0.13 x 60 = 7.8 GPM or 468 GPH.


Step 2, Design and map
Draw the property to scale, and be sure to include: house, sidewalks, patios, driveways, fences, etc. Label: grass, flower beds, and wherever you want water. A large K-rain head can spray 45 feet. There are 3 heads per zone, but to ensure overlap on a windy day, we install heads every  30 feet. A mister head goes every 10 feet. Head to head coverage is so important.  Proper sprinkler placement allows even watering and reduces dry patches.

Step 3, Mark and dig Trenches
Mark the layout. Call 8-1-1 several days before you dig to have buried utilities marked. It usually take 3 business days for the utilities to be marked. Make any necessary adjustments to your plan and mark the path of the trenches with spray paint. Mark the location of the sprinkler heads with the flags we sent you. Remove sod. To minimize damage to the lawn, remove the sod over the trenches first after you dig it out. Cut through the sod on both sides of the trench. Dig down 8 to 10 inches deep and about 10 inches wide for your trench, roll the grass toward you and finish cleaning the trench. Remember to put dirt on the opposite side of the grass. Keep the grass damp until you're ready to put it back.

Dig the trenches. Trenches vary from 8 to 10 inches deep depending on how far you dig. Rent a trencher to do the work if can, it makes the job easier and only takes a few hours. Always hand dig over utilities. Water the lawn the night before to make hand digging easier.

If the path of the trench crosses a sidewalk, stop the trench on either side, then clear a path for the pipe under the sidewalk with a piece of metal pipe about a foot longer than the sidewalk is wide. Put metal end caps on each end of the pipe, lay it flat in the trench, and then drive it into the dirt below the sidewalk with a sledgehammer. Leave the pipe in place for easier access for your sprinkler pipe. Make sure your trenches are all cleaned and then comes the trenches for the heads. Dig from the main line to each head, 8 inches deep and 5 inches wide is fine, when all trenches are ready, we will be ready to lay pipe.


Step 4, Hooking to water supply
Connecting to the water supply is simple. First dig out your valve box 3 x 3 and make sure your down 8 to 10 inches. Take the assembled hose and valves and hook it to the outside faucet, then take connected sprinkler valves and pipe and hook your PVC pipe to it,  The pipes used for sprinkler systems are usually PVC, which is best cut using a pipe cutter made especially for the material or a hacksaw. Some pipes connect with fittings; others are primed with solvent-cement primer and then glued together with solvent cement. We have videos to help you along the way.


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Step 5, Valves already to go
Separate valve control each zone from 1 to 6, and the collection of control valves is called a manifold. The anti-backflow device is before the manifold. It's a single device, called a vacuum breaker, and stops water going into house.We have already assembled your valves and pre-wired your timer with 20 feet of wire to put anywhere you would like. Your kit includes one valve box, an anti siphon device, and one valve box for the valves.

Step 6, Lay out and assemble the PVC
Cut the lateral pipes to length and fit them together — but don’t connect them — above ground, alongside the trenches.

Put in a tee fitting wherever there will be a sprinkler head or where pipes run into each other. Put in an elbow when the pipe turns a corner. Connect all the pipes. Do as much assembly above ground as possible to keep from getting dirt in the joints. Place the assembled pipes in the trench as you go. Once you have connected all the pipes, turn on the water to flush out the system, and then seal the openings in the tees with duct tape to keep out dirt.

Step 7, Heads and funny pipe
Working one tee or end at a time, remove the duct tape and then connect and attach the funny pipe to the head and repeat the  process, cutting them to a length that puts the top of the sprinkler head level with the ground. Put just enough dirt in the trench to hold the sprinkler head and funny pipe in place.

After you connected all the heads, use the timer to test zone. Fix any leaks, make any necessary adjustments and then fill in the trenches except for the area. Then do as many zones as you want repeating the steps. Put the dirt and sod back in place, water and lay some seed where needed, use a lawn roller to compact the seed into the soil and water again when done.

Step 8, Timer and valve box
An indoor timer controls the valves. Hang the timer on an exterior wall near the electrical outlet within 20 feet of valve box. The wires from the timer to the valves have been pre-assembled... just plug it in. The timer has been pre-programmed for 10 per zone 5 days per week. To test your zone, make sure the dial is set to auto and hit manual, next, and then enter. This will test zones 1 through 6. After the test is completed, install the valve boxes we supplied - one covers your anti-siphon device and one covers your manifold. Fill around the valve box with dirt, replace the sod or dirt over it and lightly stomp.

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